Chefchaouen is an otherworldly escape nestled in Morocco’s
Rif Mountains. As well as its distinctive palette of blue and white
buildings, a striking contrast with the arid setting, this popular
tourist town has plenty to offer. Embark on strenuous hillside hikes or
idle strolls; bathe in mountain streams; or embrace the culinary scene
and excellent shopping. Here's how to tailor a trip to Chefchaouen to
four different travel styles.
For history buffs
Founded
in 1471 by Moulay Ali Ben Moussa Ben Rached El Alami, Chefchaouen
served as a Moorish fortress for exiles from Spain. Over the centuries,
the city grew and welcomed Jews and Christian converts alike.
Chefchaouen's
powder-blue buildings mirror the cloudless Moroccan sky - but religious
rather than stylistic reasons are behind the design choice. Jewish
teachings suggest that by dyeing thread with tekhelel (an
ancient natural dye) and weaving it into prayer shawls, people would be
reminded of God’s power. The memory of this tradition lives on in the
regularly repainted blue buildings.
Traditional
blue-painted doors and walls in Chefchaouen's old town. Image by David
Sutherland / Photographer's Choice / Getty Images.
Nowadays Chefchaouen is a rich cultural tapestry of Berber
tribespeople, Muslims and Jews, along with descendants of the Moorish
exiles from Spain who lived there in the 1400s. Berber tribespeople can
be seen wearing distinctive cotton clothing paired with woven hats that
are decorated with brightly coloured threads.
Peering through a powder-blue archway in Chefchaouen. Image by Jean-François Gornet / CC BY-SA 2.0.
For explorers
Tucked
away in Africa’s northernmost mountain range, the Rif Mountains,
Chefchaouen has plenty to offer fitness fanatics and those looking for
adventure. Valleys, gorges and picturesque peaks are in abundance where
arid landscapes meet trickling mountain streams. Both multi-day treks
and day trips are available, all of which start in Chefchaouen. Some
routes pass the nearby village of Jevel el Kelaa, a little north of the
city, through Afeska, passing through lush green forests and offering
with views of the Mediterranean Sea.
Chefchaouen's jumble of houses meets the waterfront. Image by Agnieszka Spieszny / CC BY-SA 2.0.
Nights
are spent under cloudless skies speckled with constellations
unobstructed by light pollution. Alternatively, accommodations are
available in some villages, ranging from budget backpacker hostels to
luxury hotels.
A two-day trek with Journey Beyond Travel (journeybeyondtravel.com)
starts in Chefchaouen, passing a natural spring on the way to a small
village in the Talasemtane National Park. A night spent in a small
mountain lodge is followed by a visit to the Farda River and God’s
Bridge before a picnic lunch, a stop off at Akchour and a transfer back
to the blue city. With Tours By Locals (toursbylocals.com), visitors can explore on mule-back.
Whatever
the season, visitors are guaranteed incredible views. April to June is a
popular time of year for trekkers. Chefchaouen is prone to dustings of
snow in winter and may be more challenging for hikers (experience
recommended).
Some experienced mountaineers overlooking the Rif Mountains. Image by Agnieszka Spieszny / CC BY-SA 2.0.
For foodies
Your
taste buds wont know what’s hit them after a few days in the city, what
with the hundreds of spices, aromatic herbs, variety of textures and
tantalising smells. Kick off your day with a bakery trip: bread is baked
in a traditional wood-fired oven, giving it a distinctive taste and
crunchy outer layer.
For lunch, try the town’s signature tagine: a
typical Moroccan-style dish made with fish, vegetables, spices and oil
served on a bed of fluffy couscous. Tagine, a dish for lunch or dinner,
has many variations but most commonly consists of meat or fish, a
mixture of vegetables and a selection of spices. The dish often includes
ras-el-hanout, a tangy blend of around 30 spices including turmeric, paprika, cardamom, chilli, cumin, cinnamon and more.
Try one of these tagines, grilled meats or succulent fish dishes at Casa Hassan’s Tissemlal Restuarant (casahassan.com/en/tissemlal-restaurant).
A guesthouse-cum-restaurant, the eatery is popular with both locals and
tourists, and many return again and again. Its open-plan kitchen allows
a sneak peek into the preparation of the many dishes on offer.
Polish
off each meal with a refreshing mint tea, made by boiling green tea
leaves and adding fresh mint and a generous helping of sugar. The tea is
reputedly great for your health and is an important part of Moroccan
life, as many locals meet for daily discussions over a steaming pot in
one of the many cafes that line the higgledy-piggledy alleyways.
A glistening plate of olives, the perfect appetiser for a Moroccan feast. Image by Gabriel Rodríguez / CC BY-SA 2.0.
For retail junkies
Quaint
and colourful, Chefchaouen’s medina is like stepping into another
world. Nestled in the crooked hillside streets, the medina is an
addictive emporium for those looking to burn a hole in their pocket.
Brass teapots and plates glint from the shadows. Handwoven blankets and
shawls conceal walls and tables. Tortoises scramble for lettuce leaves
in blue plastic baskets. Aztec-patterned bags and Moroccan slippers lie
in haphazard piles, spilling from sacks into the streets.
For
silver plates and jewellery, stop at the sheltered trove along Hassan 1
where trinkets balance in precarious stacks and line the walls. A little
further along the cobbled path you'll find cardigans, shawls and
blankets made from sheep’s wool or camel hair are draped from rafters.
Follow the hillside down to the Kasbah to an organised scattering of
handmade tagine clay pots, decorated with delicate artistry and piled
high for the taking.
Before you get too carried away filing your
bags with gems and jewels, carpets and spices, it’s best to learn the
art of haggling. In Morocco you’ll be expected to barter for your wares,
battling for the best price possible. Ask the vendor his price before
making your offer, then swiftly halve his request. Gently edge higher
until you meet a compromise, and always end with a smile and a shukran to thank them.
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